IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


Hi 

IAS 


•"    lift 

It  1^ 


1^  IIIM 
IIIM 


1:25  lllll  1.4 


M 

Is 
1.6 


<^ 


W 


//, 


/. 


%\^'' 


/A 


''^ 


o 


7 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


,\ 


^^ 


o 


A 


% 


m  <^ 


/. 


t/j 


i 


^ 


o^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  canadien  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  availabitt  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  biiiliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


n 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag^e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicul^e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  'iure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6td  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


L'Insttut  a  microfilmd  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  4tt6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


0 
D 
D 
H 
D 
0 

n 
n 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  indgale  de  I'impresslon 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqui  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

• 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


tiaire 
IS  details 
ques  du 
nt  modifier 
(iger  une 
le  filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t4  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  fiimd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


|u6es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  fiim^s  en  commcnpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — »-  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


aire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  ciichd,  il  est  film6  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


by  errata 
led  to 

ent 

une  pelure, 

Fapon  d 


h;- 1 :  : 

2 

3 

32X 


1  2  3 

4  5  6 


4    '• 


0     % 


. 


«  # 


X^^^'-v 


•-  ^..v-  -•'-/'%>-•  y*  ^  .^-^ 


^^^s^@^^' 


A   Hand    Book 


FOR 


Lake    Memphremagog, 


WITH    ROUTK    LIST, 


Balance  Rock,  Lake  Meniphrcinagog. 


By  John  Ross  Dix,  Aut'ior  of  "  Pen  and  Ink 

Skctchef,"  &c.,  &c.. 


I      t 


I 


\ 


J 


With  Illuftrations  by  the  Author.    ■  | 

TO  BE  HAD  AT  ALL  RAILWAY  DEPOTS. 

PiucE  25   Cents. 


\^^%e^- 


'^SSl 


6) 


I 


*    TT  A  MD  nooK 


N  0  T  J  C  E 


c 


Mn.e  tins  Book  was  published,  the  Conne.ti.u.  and 
Ia..umpsic  Rive.-.  Railroad  has  heeu  extended  to  New- 
port.  tJ,e  head  of  Lake  Memphremagog.  Travellers  ,a„ 
now  v.s.Mh.s  charming  sheet  of  water  without  ehanu,. 
ot  Cars  frotn  Boston,  a,.,)  o„|^-  o.,..  ehautre  fro,,,  N,.w 
York  aiifl  Burlington. 

A  now  and  spacious  Hotel  has  l,een  re<.cntly  crect.,1  on 
Uie  Lake  Shore,  atfoniin-  a  fine  view  of  the  Lake  fron, 
Its  windows  and  piazzas. 

I'asseugers  ste,,  dire,-t  fro,.,  the  ,■«,>  i„to  the  .ailroad 
depot.  wh„d.  is  i„  the  haseu.eut  of  hotel,  tJ,„s  avoidin,. 
tl."  Muportutiities  of  .-oach  .Irive.-s  „„d  the  i„.-o,.vw,ieuee 
ot  lookiu"'  aftei'  bajjiraae. 

Travelle,-s   to   White    an.l    K.-aueouia    Mouotains    rau 
leave  the  Moi.„tai„>  in   the  „,ornii,n..  ,„„|  ,„,„.,,  ja  ,.^ 

■iiid  Luke  IMajiog  at  noon. 

The  eeh'l.rated  Copper  Mi.ies  of  Canada,  in,-lndino  the 
button,  Aseot,  Aeton,  Orfo,-d.  Dndsweil,  &e..  and  the  re 
<-ently  dis.M.vered  (ioM  Mines,  a.v  .-enehe.l  in  a  few  hours 
from  Newport. 

l^  The  Route  Table,  on  Pages  53,  54,  55  and  56 

IS  incorrect.      See    Appleton\s   antl  l^athfinder    Railwav 
<Juides  for  re(;eut  ehaui^e.^. 

May.   1.^64, 


I 


*m 


At 


T( 


I'l  liij^jjiuy 


A   HAND   BOOK 


FOR 


LAKE    MEMPHREMAGOG, 


"WITH    KOUTE    LIST, 


BY  JOHN  ROSS  DIX, 

Author  of    "Pen  and   Ink    Sketches,"  &c.,  &c.,  with    Illus- 
trations, BY  THE  Author. 


TO    BE    HAD    AT    ALL    RAILWAY    DEPOTS. 


PRICE    25    CENTS. 


BOSTON : 

PRINTED  BY  EVANS  &  CO..  152  WASHINGTON  STREET. 


A    HAND    r.OOK 


FOB   LAKE    MEMPHBEMAGOG, 


•««»■ 


CHAPTER    I. 

Where  it  is  and  how  to  get  there.  The  Connedknt 
and  Passunipsic  Rivers  Railroad.  Scenery  on  the 
banks  of  the  Connecticut.     Neivport. 


Somctliing  new  !  that  is  the  universal  cry  or  craving 
now-a-days.  It  is  so  in  the  matter  of  travelling,  as  in 
almost  everything  else.  Whatever  may  be  the  special 
attractions  of  any  place,  in  the  eyes  of  snmmer  tour- 
ists generally,  (poets  and  landscape  painters  perhaps 
excepted,)  the  gloss  of  novelty  wears  off  after  a  few 
"  seasons,"  and  then  comes  a  longing  for  "  the  far  off 
unattained  and  (distantly)  dim."  Familiarity  with 
''  Springs,"  "  Lakes,"  "  Mountains,"  "  Watering-pla-' 
ces"  and  the  like,  is  apt  to  breed,  as  in  the  case  of 


MKMPiniEMA(;0(J. 


some  of  our  acquaintance,  a  species  of  indifference 
apju'oacliing  to  dislike.  Even  in  tliis  great  country, 
wh(4*e,  travel  in  what  direction  we  will,  there  are  suni- 
incu"  resorts  in  j)lenty — each  one,  as  its  interested  |)ro- 
prietors  blandly  inform  us — "  a  little  Heaven  hek)W." 
The  important  question  is  asked  every  sprin*^ — Where 
shdll  we  go  this  season  ?  AVhere  can  we  find  fresh 
ii(3lds  and  pastures  new  ?  Mount  Washington,  Niagara, 
Newport,  Cape  May,  the  Mannnoth  Cave,  and  many 
other  "  Lions"  of  travel,  have  all  been  "  done,"  and 
we  sigh  like  tlie  voluptuary  of  old,  for  a  "  new  pleas- 
ure." Can  such  b<^  found  ?  We  answer  yes  !  Visit 
Lake  ^Ienij)hremagog,  and  our  word  for  it — artist, 
hunter  after  the  picturesque,  seeker  after  health,  gun- 
ner in  search  of  game,  angler  for  trout,  pickerel  or 
longe.  bold  mountain-climber,  strong-armed  boatman, 
lady  wanderer  who  loves  to  saunter  in  verdurous  groves 
and  winding  mossy  ways — you  will,  each  and  all  of 
you,  excl.iim  after  a  sojourn  on  the  banks  of  this  lovely 
lake — Eureka! 

Sujiposing  the  reader  to  have  decided  on  visiting 
Lake  Momphremagog,  the  next  thing  requisite  to  know 
is  how  to  get  there.  Fortunately,  in  these  days  of 
steam,  that  is  an  easy  matter  enough — for  one  may 
breakfast  in  Boston  New  York,  Portland,  Montreal  or 
Quebec,  and  sup  within  the  shadow  of  the  "  Owls 
Kead"  Mountain,  about  twelve  miles  from  the  head  of 
the  lake,  and  in  the  very  heart  of  its  beauties.  As  at 
the  end  of  this  Hand  Book  will  be  found  a  complete 


J 


MEMPIIUKMAGOO. 


0 


|)ro- 


tiil)le  of  routes,  wc  will  siip|)osc  uio  visitor  from  tlio 
south  to  liJivc  arrived  at  White  River  Junetiou,  Vt., 
little  more  thiiu  ITjO  miles  from  Boston,  where  the 
Northern  and  several  other  Railways  coniieet  with  the 
Conuectieut  and  Passumpsic  Rivers  Railroad,  which 
latter  line  will  eonvey  you  to  within  IH'teen  miles  ol' 
the  head  of  the  lake,  at  Newport. 

Sullicient  time  elapses  between  the  arrival  of  trains 
from  the  south,  and  the  departure  of  that  for  the  north, 
for  the  tourist  to  get  a  capital  dinner  at  the  Junction 
Hotel ;  or  if  he  chooses,  there  is  a  good  Restaurant 
close  to  the  track.  If  a  stroll  be  preferred  to  "  crea- 
ture comforts,"  the  Railroad  Bridges  and  the  works  of 
the  Railway  Companies,  will  repay  inspection.  Here 
White  River  Hows  into  the  Connecticut.  The  scenery 
around  is  picturesque,  but  the  reality  of  Railways  has 
gone  far  to  banish  the  "romance"  of  landscape.  If 
the  reader  will  read  the  graphic  description  of  a  Rail- 
road '•'  Junction"  in  Dickens'  tour  of  "  Two  Idle  Ap- 
prentices," he  will  get  a  very  accurate  notion  of  the 
particular  one  to  which  we  are  alluding. 

It  is  one  very  great  advantage  of  a  tour  to  Lake 
Memphremagog,  that  the  way  to  it,  for  the  most  part, 
lies  among  some  of  tlie  most  charming  seen '-^ ^7  in  the 
world.  The  loveliness  of  the  valley  of  the  C  jnnecti- 
cut,  and  the  beauty  of  the  river,  has  afforded  many  a 
theme  and  scene  to  poet  and  artist.  For  a  distance  of 
about  forty  miles  on  the  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic 
Rivers  Railroad,  the  track  lies  close  to  the  river,  af- 


1 1 


I  i 


i 


i   i 
i 


i,   ! 


6 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


fording  fine  opportnnities  of  seeing  its  placid  expan- 
sion, picturesque  falls,  and  various  windings,  as  well 
as  of  the  verdant  intervals  on  its  either  side,  the  moun- 
tains by  which  they  are  bounded,  and  the  farms  and 
villages  wliich  gleam  white  among  embowering  trees 
on  the  gentle  slopes  and  pleasant  plateaux.  But  a 
truce  to  anticipation.  Amos  Barnes  Esq.,  the  efficient 
Conductor  on  the  line,  cries  "  all  aboard,"  and  in 
another  moment  we  cross  White  River  Bridge  en  route 
in  earnest,  for  the  lake. 

Now  and  then  we  catch  glimpses  of  the   river,  just 
enough  to  whet  our  eye-appetite  for   that  which  is  to 
come.     One  object  of  interest  is  a  large  dam.     Cross- 
ing Blood  brook,  the  Hanover  and  Norwich  Station  is 
reached,  (4J   miles   from  White  River.)     These  vil- 
lages cannot  be  seen  from  the  Railway,  as  each  lies  on 
a  hii>*h   table-land  about  half  a  mile  from  either  bank. 
You  may  notice  on  the  depot  platform,  some   spruce 
young  Cadets  in  uniform,  chatting  with  pale,  or  mcrry- 
visaged  student-looking  young  men  ;  the  former  are 
from  Norwich  University,  a  Military  Educational  Es- 
tablishment ;  the  latter  from  Dartmouth  College,  (Free 
Bridge)  at  Hanover.  Six  miles  further  on  is  Ompompa- 
noosuc  Station,  before  reaching  which,  we  note  several 
islands  in  the  river.     The  euphonious   appellation   of 
the  place  is  derived   from   the  fact   that  formerly  it 
abounded  in  wild  onions — possibly  it  was  the  "  Weth- 
ersfield"   of  the   Indians.     Thetford,   famous  for  its 
Academy,  is  next  reached  ;  then  North  Thetford,  Fair- 


.  ( 
I 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


expan- 
as  well 
e  moun- 
ms  and 
ig  trees 

But  a 
efficient 

and  in 
en  route 

ver,  just 
ell  is  to 

Cross- 
tation  is 
lese  vil- 
1  lies  on 
er  bank. 

spruce 
r  mcrrj- 
mer  are 
)nal  Es- 
e,  (Free 
apompa- 
i  several 
ation  of 
nerly  it 
<-'  Weth- 

for  its 
ird,  Fair- 


lee,  Orford,  and  Piermont  Crossing,  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  which,  is  the  picturesque  old  bridge  over  the 
Connecticut,  (for  an  engraving  of  which,  see  page  11,) 

After  a  ride  of  five  miles  we  pass  Bradford  and  get 
to  the  Haverhill  depot ;  the  village  on  tlie  New  Hamp- 
shire side  of  the  river  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  table- 
land, high  above  the  stream.  Far  beyond,  is  seen 
Moose  Hillock,  4,686  feet  high,  the  Sugar  Loaf  Moun- 
tain and  Black  Hill.  The  river  views  here  are  remark- 
ably fine,  and  the  meadows  wonderfully  verdant,  ov/iiig 
to  the  frequent  overflowing  of  the  Connecticut,  which, 
receding,  leaves,  Nile-like,  a  rich  deposit  of  alluvia 
on  the  land. 

Newbury — perhaps  the  prettiest  village  on  the  river, 
now  appears  in  sight — Mount  Pulaski  forming  a  mag- 
nificent back  ground  to  its  churches,  ils  well  known 
Wesley  an  Academy,  stores  and  dwelling  houses.  Here 
is  one  of  the  best  hotels  in  the  State — the  Newburv 
House,  kept  by  Mr.  Nelson  B.  Stevens.  If  time  per- 
mits, the  tourist  should  by  all  means  spend  a  day,  at 
least,  here,  and  ascend  Pulaski,  from  whose  summit  he 
will  have  one  of  the  finest  views  of  the  valley  and 
river.  Here  too  are  the  far-famed  Sulphur  Springs, 
to  which  in  summer  hundreds  of  invalids  resort.  Near 
Newbury  is  a  fine  bend  of  the  river  called  the  Great 
Ox-Bow,  a  sketch  of  which  we  give  on  the  next  page. 

Leaving  Newbury,  we  see  on  our  right,  in  the  dis- 
tance, the  Franconia  Range,  which  alone  hide  the 
White  Moxmtains  ;  and  shooting  along  the  base  of  In- 


8 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


gall's  hill,  reach  Wells  River  Village,  where  is  the  ter- 
minus of  the  White  Mountain  Railroad.  Still  run- 
ning by  the  river  side,  we  next  reach  Mclndoes,  where 
there  is  one  of  the  finest  falls  on  the  Connecticut.  A 
mile  or  two  further  on  is  Barnet,  a  place  almost  exclu- 
sively inhabited  by  Scotchmen,  some  ''  cannie"  Caledo- 
nians having  purchased  the  land  on  which  it  stands, 
years  ago,  and  their  descendants  still  keeping  posses- 
sion of  it. 


IS 

B{ 


Great  Ox-Bo\ir. 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


9 


le  ter- 
ruii- 
wlierc 

rt.   A 

xclu- 
alcdo- 
taiids, 
losses- 


I 

.* 


".'I 


Here  tlie  track  leaves  the  banks  of  the  Connecticut 
and  g'oes  thundering  along  the  banks  of  the  Passump- 
sic  River,  (a  tributary  of  the  former,)  past  McLerans 
and  Passumpsic  Depot,  to  St.  Johnsbury,  one  of  the 
most  important  places  in  Vermont.  Here  is  a  capital 
Hotel,  the  St.  Johnsbury  House,  kept  by  Mr.  Watson. 
Here  is  located  the  world-renowned  Scale  Factory  of 
the  Messrs.  Fairbanks ;  indeed  these  works  and  their 
surroundings,  form  a  distinct  village  called  after  its 
founders,  whose  vast  influence  for  good  is  owned  and 
appreciated  by  all  who  know  them.  Fairbanks  Village 
is  well  worthy  a  visit ;  it  is  the  very  Eden  of  Manu- 
facturing Industry. 

After  passing  St.  Johnsbury  Centre,  the  Passumpsic 
becomes  so  very  tortuous  that  one  might  fancy  a  gi- 
gantic corkscrevV  had  been,  liquefied.  Just  before 
reaching  Lyndon,  there  are  some  picturesque  falls 
which  will  delight  an  artistic  eye.  The  next  station 
is  West  Burke,  where  stages  arc  in  waiting  to  convey 
passengers  to  Willoughby  Lake,  (five  miles  distant ;) 
there  Mr.  Bemis  keeps  a  first  rate  Hotel  on  the  lake's 
bank.  In  a  short  time,  after  ascending  a  rather  steep 
grade,  the  track  runs  along  a  high  bank  at  the  base  of 
which  is  Bell  Water  Pond — a  sheet  of  water  about 
three  miles  in  length,  and  averaging  one  in  w^idth.  It 
is  famous  for  its  longe.  At  the  outlet  of  the  pond  is 
Barton,  the  present  terminus  of  the  Railroad,  which, 
however,  will  soon  be  extended  to  Newport. 

There  is  little  in  Barton  to  detain  the  tourist.     Mr. 


.1 


I 


•a  I 


10 


MEMPHREMACJOfJ. 


Milton  D.  Thompson,  the  very  obliging  and  active  De- 
pot Master,  will  afford  strangers  every  facility  in  pro- 
curing stages  to  convey  them  the  remaining  15  miles 
of  their  journey  ;  or  if  a  stay  for  the  niglit  be  preferred, 
there  is  the  Barton  Hotel,  where  Messrs.  Hill  &  Ikick 
will  show  guests  every  attention.  There  is  also  a  Hail- 
way  Hotel,  but  stages  run  to  and  from  the  former 
house. 

Immediately  on  the  arrival  of  the  train,  stages  start 
for  Newport,  where  we  will  suppose  the  reader  to  have 
arrived  ;  and  now  we  are  fairly  on  the  banks  of  Lake 
Memphremagog,  which  as  we  descend  the  liill  to  the 
village,  stretches  away  to  the  north,  until  in  the  far 
distance,  it  blends  with  the  purple  shadows  of  the  sur- 
rounding mountains. 

Excellent  accommodations  may  be  found  at  the 
Memphremagog  Hotel,  which  is  famous  among  epicures 
for  its  fish.  Pickerel,  trout  and  longe  are  scarcely  out 
of  the  lake,  before,  like  St.  Lawrence  of  old,  they  are 
broiling  on  a  grid-iron — out  of  the  water  into  the  fire, 
may  (to  iis^  pleasantly  vary  the  old  adage.  But  we 
have  no  time  for  culinary  raptures ;  therefore  let  us 
mount  the  neighboring  hill  and  get  a  general  vicAV  of 
the  lake  and  landscape — 'twill  well  repay  the  trifling 
toil  of  climbing.  This  pedestrian  feat  accomplished, 
we  hear  as  we  descend,  the  bell  of  the  Steamboat,  and 
hurrying  on  Ave  soon  reach  the  wharf,  at  the  end  of 
which  the  "  Mountain  Maid"  is  (for  it  is  8  o'clock, 
A.  M.)  waiting  for  her  living  cargo. 


I 


i 


^< 


4 


.  i  ■  ' 


% 


MEMPIlllKMAGOC!. 


11 


ive  De- 
ill  pro- 
5  miles 

ferred, 
Ife  ]]uck 

a  Rail- 
former 

es  start 
to  have 
)f  Lake 
.  to  the 
the  far 
he  sur- 


at  the 
ipicures 
3ely  out 
liey  are 
;hc  fire, 
But  we 

let  us 
view  of 
trifling 
)lished, 
at,  and 

end  of 
)' clock, 


I 


Old  Bridge  at  Piermont  Crossing. 


If 


12 


M KM PH REM AGOG. 


I  i 


ciiaptp:r   II. 

Trip  on  the  Lake — Ba?/s  and  Landing's — Passenger 
Portraits — Province  Line  and  Istand — Whetstone 
Island — A  Treasure  Cave — The  Mountain  House, 

Here  come  the  passengers  by  one's,  and  two's,  and 
three's,  at  first,  then  in  groups  of  a  dozen  or  more — 
then  one's  and  two's  and  three's  again — and  as  tiie 
Captain  cries  "  Let  go  there," — the  inevitable  last  man, 
who  (being  of  a  portly  and  plethoric  habit)  comes 
panting  and  perspiring  and  looking  daggers  at  the 
Captain,  who  we  may  here  introduce  to  the  reader  as 
Captain  Fogg,  than  whom  we  do  not  know  a  pleasanter 
or  politer  personage.  In  fact  he  is  just  the  man  for 
the  position  he  occupies,  and  so  well  posted  up  as  to 
the  lake  and  everything  concerning  it,  that  had  he 
time  to  answer  all  the  questions  put  to  him  by  his 
eager  passengers,  we  might  as  well  have  left  this  Guide- 
b)ok  unwritten. 

While  the  boat  is  rounding  her  bows  to  the  north,  we 
may  as  well  give  a  brief,  general  sketch  of  the  lake — 
whose  name  may  at  first  be  rather  puzzling  to  tongues 
not  quite  as  much  accustomed  to  aboriginal  nomeac- 
lature  as  Mr.  Schoolcraft.  Memphremagog  is  doubt- 
less a  corruption  of  the  Indian  name,  Mem  plow -bou- 


I 


er, 


MEMPHREMACiOG. 


13 


'assenger 

Vhetstone 

House, 


w^o's,  and 
r  more — 
d  as  the 
last  man, 
t)  comes 
ps  at  the 
:eader  as 
leasanter 
J  man  for 
up  as  to 
i  had  he 
n  by  his 
lis  Guide- 

lorth,  we 
le  lake — 
)  tongues 
nomeac- 
is  doubt- 
vlow-boU' 


2. 

I 


lb 


que^  which  signifios  a  large,  beautiful  expanse  of  water  ; 
at  least,  so  says  Mr.  Pratt,  in  his  Gazetteer  of  Vermont. 
Its  extreme  length  is  nearly  50  miles — but  only  a  lit- 
tle over  30  miles  are  navigable  by  large  boats.  The 
average  breadth  is  about  three  miles.  About  one-third 
of  its  length  is  situated  in  Vermont — the  remaining 
two-thirds  are  in  Canada.  Three  streams  empty  them- 
selves into  it  at  its  southern  extremity ;  the  Clyde, 
Barton  and  Black  Rivers.  It  is  also  fed  by  some 
smaller  tributaries  and  springs,  and  has  its  outlet  at 
Magog,  where  it  furnishes  a  magnificent  water  privi- 
lege. It  finally  empties  itself  into  the  St.  Francis  Riv- 
er, and  its  waters  thus  find  their  way  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence. 

We  will  now  endeavor  to  describe  it  in  detail,  by 
pointing  out  as  we  steam  along,  whatever  may  be 
deemed  wortliy  of  note  or  comment. 

We  have  not  to  go  far  in  search  of  the  picturesque  ; 
it  is  one  great  and  charming  feature  of  Lake  Mem- 
phremagog,  that  its  shores,  throughout  its  entire  length, 
are  indented  with  beautiful  bays,  between  which,  in 
many  places,  jut  out  bold  headlands  ;  in  fact,  there 
is  not  a  *'  bit"  of  tame  scenery  to  be  met  with  ;  and  so 
one  is  spared  the  disagreeable  necessity — inevitable  in 
some  less  favored  locality — of  travelling  ten  dreary 
miles  to  see  perhaps  one  mile  of  scenery  worth  looking 
at.  Another  object  worthy  of  note,  and  it  may  as 
well  be  mentioned  here — is  the  great  pxirity  of  its  wa- 
ters ;  you  never  see  weed  or  scum  fringing  its  shores  ; 


HI' 

11!: 


)l! 


14 


MEMPHREMACOa. 


close  to  cither  rocky  or  grassy  margin,  it  is  as  pure  as 
at  its  centre. 

At  tlic  first  glance  from  the  deck  of  the  Mountain 
Maid,  the  lake  appears  as  if  it  were  completely  land- 
locked by  the  mountains  within  the  range  of  vision ; 
in  fact,  it  seems  almost  circular,  owing  to  a  slight  curv- 
ature, which  from  this  point  cuts  off  tlie  prospect 
northward.  The  eastern  shore  is  less  mountainous 
than  the  western,  generally ;  here  it  gently  slopes  to 
the  water,  the  upland  being  dotted  with  farms  and 
pretty  dwellings.  Right  ahead  is  seen  a  projecting 
point,  ol'  spur  of  land,  called  Indian  Pointy  where  In- 
diana encamped  as  lately  as  sixty  years  ago — so  at  least 
we  were  informed  by  an  old  gentleman,  a  native  of  this 
region,  who  well  remembered  having  seen  their  wig- 
wams, with  squaws  sitting  in  front,  making  or  mending 
nets.  Immediately  after  leaving  Newport,  a  wooded 
point  is  passed,  and  Adams*  Bay  comes  suddenly  into 
view  ;  this  is  a  semi-circular  indentation  of  the  lake, 
and  highly  picturesque.  On  the  right,  and  a  little  to 
the  north,  the  Avaters  widen  and  form  a  sort  of  harbor, 
in  which  is  a  cluster  of  small  islands,  of  which  those 
called  Black  Island,  and  Tea-table  Island,  are  the  most 
noticeable.  These  islets,  however,  cannot  be  seen  to 
advantage  from  the  Steamboat,  but  a  good  view  of  them 
may  be  obtained  from  the  high  land  near  the  road  from 
Newport  to  Derby  Centre,  on  the  eastern,  or  from  the 
stage  road,  on  the  western  shore. 

Other  islands  are  seen  ahead,  which  we  shall  describe 


i 


MEMPHREMAGO(J. 


15 


pure  as 

[ountain 

)\y  laiid- 

'  vision ; 

!;lit  curv- 

prospect 

iitainous 

lopes  to 

ms   and 

'ojecting 

here  In- 

3  at  least 

e  of  this 

leir  wig- 

nending 

wooded 

nly  into 

le  lake, 

little  to 

harbor, 

h  those 

he  most 

seen  to 

of  them 

ad  from 

rom  the 

describe 


as  we  reach  them.  Having  passed  Adams',  we  now 
come  abreast  of  Potton  Bay,  (also  on  the  western 
side)  named  after  the  township  in  which  it  is  situated. 
Here  the  prospect  is  extremely  grand.  On  our  left, 
rises  Bear  Mountain,  part  of  a  continuous  range  which 
appears  to  terminate  in  distance,  in  the  OivVs  Head, 
which  towerc  above  all  its  aspiring  neighbors.  Viewed 
from  this  direction,  this  now  famous  mountain  has  a 
peculiarly  rounded  summit,  which  seems  riven  into  im- 
mense fissures  ;  this  bald  and  craggy  top  is  very  strik- 
ing, rising  abruptly,  as  it  does,  from  among  the  trees 
that  clothe  the  mountain  from  the  water's  edge,  to  with- 
in a  few  rods  of  its  crest. 

But  we  must  not,  in  our  admiration  of  the  landscape, 
omit  to  notice  the  "  figures"  which,  artistically  speak- 
ing, give  life  to  our  picture.  We  need  not  look  far  for 
these  ;  not  further  indeeed  than  the  deck  of  the  Moun- 
tain Maid,  on  which  specimens  of  almost  every  de- 
scription of  the  genus  tourist  may  be  seen.  Those  two 
gentlemen  dressed  in  suits  of  the  true  sportsman's  pat- 
tern and  cut,  seated  on  trunks  which  have  evidently 
endured  much  wear  and  tear,  and  yet  are  as  servicea- 
ble and  strong  as  ever — who  are  surrounded  with  fish- 
ing-rods, camping  materials,  guns  and  what  not,  are 
evidently  a  brace  of  English  travellers,  who  are  intent 
on  "  bar,"  deer,  and  fish,  for  the  capture  of  which  lat- 
ter, one  of  them  rather  ostentatiously  exhibits  a  book 
of  magnificent  *'  flies"  spoon-hooks  and  lines,  bought 
in  London,  and  warranted  to  ''  kill."-     Near  them  is  a 


I 


II 


IG 


MEMPHREMArjOn 


roii^h  looking  fellow,  wliosc  rifle  and  shabby  fishing- 
rod  arc  strapped  together  ;  lie  looks  eontemptuously  at 
the  blue  a'^ '  .d  haekle,  and  the  London  Hies  general- 
ly, and  feeis  quite  sure  they  wont  "  du."  Nor  will 
they — for  that  shrewd  Canadian  can,  with  a  few  feath- 
ers, some  bits  of  silk  and  a  hook,  make,  by  the  water- 
side, a  ''  fiy"  which  shall  fall  like  a  snow  flake  on  the 
water,  and  be  eagerly  snapped  at  by  some  deluded 
member  of  the  Fish  family.  That  youth  with  a  beard 
like  those  seen  in  Vandyke's  pictures — and  clad  in 
blouse  and  belt,  is  doubtless  an  artist,  on  tlie  lookout 
for  "  bits,"  "  studies,"  "  sky  effects"  and  "  distances." 
For  a  month  or  two  he  will  wander  along  these  shores, 
or  on  yonder  mountains,  and  next  winter  we  shall  see 
in  the  Post,  or  Herald,  such  a  notice  as  this.  "  We 
have  just  examined  with  mucli  pleasure,  a  folio  of 
magnificent  views  on  Lake  Memphremagog,  drawn 
from  nature,  by  our  talented  fellow  citizen,  Salvator 
Guido  Claude  Carmine  Esq.  They  are  far  superior 
to  the  productions  of  Turner,  Gainsborough,  Horace 
Vernet,  or  any  of  the  artists  of  the  old  world,  and  we 
hail  them  as  a  proof  that  American  painters  are  supe- 
rior, even  to  the  much  vaunted  old  masters,"  &c.,  &c. 
The  conceited  looking  young  fellow  who  now  and  then 
pulls  out  a  note-book  and  inserts  a  memorandum  there- 
in, is  a  newspaper  letter  writer,  who  is  prone  to  exag- 
gerate, and  deals  largely  in  superlatives.  And  the 
lady  passengers !  There  is  among  them  a  wdiole  ''  bevy" 
of  beauties — about  seventeen  young  ladies,  who  with 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


17 


their  Preceptress  have  come  to  see  the  lake  ;  a  more 
charming  party  never  danced  on  the  deck  of  the  Moun- 
tain Maid.  Hut  we  have  only  time  to  describe  one 
other  })crsonage,  and  this  time,  do  so  "  with  a  pur])Ose." 

Do  you  observe  that  individual  with  ratiier  florid 
whiskers,  Avho  is  strolling  among  the  baggage  and 
freight  on  the  lower  deck,  assuming  a  look  of  uncon- 
cern, and  yet  quietly  taking  notice  of  everything?  He 
is  not  one  of  the  crew,  for  he  does  not  handle  a  rope 
or  lend  a  hand  to  anybody  ;  he  is  not  a  passenger,  for 
he  looks,  without  betraying  any  interest  at  the 
scenery,  and  is  not  in  tourist  costume.  He  seems  of  a 
misanthropical  turn  of  mind,  for  he  speaks  to  no  one  ; 
but  his  want  of  words  is  amply  made  up  for  by  the  use 
of  his  eyes.  They  seem  to  penetrate  boxes,  barrels, 
bales  and  baskets.  Is  he  meditating  a  larceny  ?  Does 
he  intend  to  clandestinely  abstract  their  contents  ?  By 
no  means — he  is  literally  and  strictly  in  the  path  of 
"  duty."     He  is  a  Custom  Plouse  Officer. 

His  presence  tells  a  story.  The  Mountain  Maid  is 
now  drawing  near  the  boundary,  or  Province  line  of 
Webster  and  Ashburton  renown,  which  separates  the 
United  States  from  Canada — after  passing  which,  be 
you  Monarchist  or  Republican,  you  will  assuredly  have 
to  pay  "  duty"  to  Queen  Victoria's  Government,  if  you 
have  anything  on  which  it  can  be  levied — and  you  fail 
to  hide  it  from  that  lynx-eyed  official,  who,  however, 
is  polite  in  the  performance  of  his  duty,  and  gives  no 
unnecessary  trouble. 


18 


MEMPIIREMAGOG. 


n; 


Now  just  look  to  the  land  on  your  left,  and  you  will 
observe  a  small  farni-liouse  ;  that  is  the  last  dwelling 
in  Vermont  in  this  direction.  A  few  rods  from  *t  is 
the  small  iron  post  which  marks  the  identical  spot 
which  the  Province  line  traverses  ;  glance  to  the  right 
and  you  .see  that  you  are  abreast  of  an  island — through 
which  also  the  line  runs,  and  beyond  this,  far  away, 
on  the  crest  of  the  eastern  hills,  you  may  observe  a  gap 
through  the  woods,  which  indicates  the  course  of  the 
line  in  that  direction.  The  iron  post  is  quickly  past, 
and  we  have  exchanged  the  domains  of  Uncle  Sam, 
for  the  dominions  of  Queen  Victoria;  we  are  in 
Canada ! 

Province  Island  is  long,  low,  and  covered  for  the 
rost  part  with  trees.  It  contains  about  40  acres  of 
excellent  arable  land,  which  are  cultivated  successfully, 
by  Mr.  Bavineau,  a  Frenchman,  who,  with  his  family, 
being  the  sole  residents  of  the  Island,  is  "  Monarch  of 
all  he  surveys."  It  does  not  often  happen,  that  a  man 
by  walking  a  dozen  steps,  and  in  the  space  of  half  a 
minute,  can  pass  from  the  rule  of  a  President  to  that 
of  a  Queen.  Indeed,  Farmer  Bavineau  can  stand 
with  one  foot  in  the  United  States,  and  the  other  in  the 
British  dominions ;  or  at  will,  and  at  once,  place  him- 
self under  the  protection  of  the  wing  of  the  American 
Eagle,  or  the  paw  of  the  British  Lion. 

Just  beyond  the  "  line"  is  Baker\s  Landing- — from 
thence,  still  "  hugging"  the  western  shore,  the  Moun- 
tain Maid  glides  onward,  while  a  constant  succession 


1 


MEMrHUEMA(iOCI. 


19 


*t  is 


of  beauties  on  lake  and  land,  charm  and  interest  the 
beholder.  The  next  landing  is  "  Rollins',"  which  is 
situated  at  the  foot  of  a  remarkably  steep  declivity. 
Here  the  l)oat  takes  in  wood,  and  not  a  little  amuse- 
ment is  afforded  by  the  swarm  of  ragged  little  rascals 
who  assist  in  this  operation. 

The  Mountain  Maid,  like  all  other  Maidens,  now  be- 
comes somewhat  capricious  ;  and  turning  her  stern 
toward  the  eastern  shore,  crosses  the  lake  diagonally, 
affording  splendid  opportunities  of  views,  **  ever  charm- 
ing, ever  new."  The  Owl's  Head  Mountain  now  looms 
up  grandly,  clad  in  its  garniture  of  living  green — its 
craggy  head,  seemingly  craggier  than  ever.  The  deep 
gorge  on  the  summit  is  now  seen  to  great  advantage, 
and  passengers  begin  to  speculate  how  far  it  may  be 
across.  Various  opinions  are  given — the  truth  is,  it  is 
about  40  rods  from  ridge  to  ridge.  Farther  north  is 
Mount  Elephantis,  (or  Sugar  Loaf)  and  Ridge  Moun- 
tain ;  and  rising  abruptly  from  the  eastern  bank.  Basin 
Mountain.  But  on  glides  the  steamer,  and  Harveijs 
Landing,  situated  at  the  entrance  of  East  Bay,  is 
reached.  This  bay  which  runs  inland  in  a  north-east- 
erly direction  for  nearly  seven  miles,  is  a  little  lake  in 
itself,  and  a  favorite  fishing  ground.  By  means  of  a 
creek  near  its  northern  end,  it  communicates  with 
another  sheet  of  water  called  Fitch  Bay. 

Near  the  entrance  of  East  Bay  is  an  island  called 
Whetstone,  or  Fitcli^s  Island — (the  latter  named  after  a 
man  who  once  claimed  to  own  it.)     This  island  is  re- 


20 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


i 


II    } 


markable  for  a  quarry  of  Novactilite^  which  may  be 
seen  like  a  yellow  line,  near  the  water's  edge,  on  its 
western  side.  Of  this  Novaculite,  capital  whetstones 
can  be  made  ;  indeed,  some  years  ago,  the  quarry  was 
worked  by  a  Company  from  Burke,  who  disposed  of 
many  tons  of  it  annually.  So  excellent  was  it,  that  it 
almost  drove  the  famous  Turkey  stone  out  of  the  mar- 
ket, and  the  Company  were  being  amply  remunerated, 
when  from  some  cause  or  other,  the  British  Govern- 
ment put  a  stop  to  the  quarrying  ;  not  however  in  or- 
der to  monopolize  the  trade  itself,  for  since  the  Burke 
Company  were  driven  off,  the  Novaculite  has  remained 
undisturbed.  This  was,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  a  "Dog 
in  the  Manger"  proceeding.  A  similar  veto  was  put 
on  mining  on  Owl's  Head,  of  which  more  anon. 

Occasionally,  when  passengers  wish  to  land,  or  em- 
bark there,  the  steamer  crosses  the  mouth  of  East 
Bay  to  Magoon's  Pointy  a  spur  of  land  which  derives 
its  name  from  a  farmer  who  resides  on  it.  This  place 
has  of  late,  attracted  some  attention,  from  the  fact  of 
there  being  an  unexplored  cavern  in  its  vicinity,  in  which 
cave,  it  is  asserted,  a  considerable  amount  of  treasure 
is  concealed.  It  is  said  that  many  years  ago  a  Roman 
Catholic  Chapel  in  Canada,  (we  believe  at  a  place 
called  St..  Francis,)  was  plundered  of  its  treasures, 
and  that  the  robbers  concealed  their  booty  here.  AVe 
are  credibly  informed  that  persons  are  now  living,  who 
saw  two  massive  gold  candlesticks  which  were  found 
in  or  near  the  cave,  buried  in  sand.     Several  unsuc- 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


21 


cessful  attempts  have  been  made  to  explore  this  mys- 
terious place — but  it  is  gravely  declared  that  every 
daring  individual  who  descended  and  penetrated  but  a 
little  Avay,  came  back  in  a  state  of  the  utmost  alarm, 
having  "  heard  fearful  noises  and  felt  like  being  chok- 
ed," a  phenomena  which  would  be  easy  of  explanation 
by  any  schoolboy  who  had  but  slightly  studied  acous- 
tics and  chemistry — since  echoes  and  carbonic  acid  gas 
would  produce  precisely  similar  effects.  We  hear  that 
explorations  on  a  large  scale  arc  to  be  made  this  sum- 
mer, (1859,)  and  only  hope  that  the  laborers  in  this 
Magog  "  diggin"  will  be  more  fortunate  than  the  san- 
guine gentlemen  who  sought  to  lay  their  "  appropria- 
tion claws"  on  the  treasures  of  the  late  gallant  Cap- 
tain Kidd. 

On  leaving  Harvey's  Landing,  the  Mountain  Maid 
returns  to  her  "  old  love,"  the  western  shore,  and  zig- 
zagging it  in  a  slant  direction,  northwards,  directs  her 
course  towards,  as  it  would  seem,  the  base  of  Owl's 
Head.  The  mountain  now  looks  grander  than  ever  ; 
dwarfing,  as  it  does,  all  its  surrounding  brethren.  We 
can  now  see  the  grey  walls  or  ledges  of  rock  which 
stripe  it  transversely ;  seemingly  impossible  to  scale, 
and  ravines  and  gorges  of  vast  magnitude.  About  a 
mile  and  a  half  off,  on  our  left,  is  Round  Island, 
to  be  spoken  of  presently.  As  yet,  there  are  no  signs 
of  any  "  House  of  Entertainment" — but  before  long 
a  wharf  with  two  flag  staffs,  a  pretty  summer  house, 
like   a  Kiosk — the  roof  of  a  dwcUino: — and  then  its 


22 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


front,  appears.  In  a  few  moments  more,  we  have  left 
Harvey's  Landing  four  miles  behind  us,  and  stand  on 
the  very  convenient  wharf  of  the  Mountain  House, 
where  we  are  welcomed  by  the  Proprietor,  Mr.  A.  C. 
Jennings,  who,  as  former  Landlord  of  the  St.  Johns- 
bury  House,  Island  Fond  Hotel,  and  other  first  rate 
Establishments,  we  had  long  and  favorably  known. 
Here  let  us  remain  for  a  few  days,  for  this  is  the  Para- 
disaic portion  of  the  lake — if  where  all  is  "  beautiful 
exceedingly,"  such  a  term  can  be  fitly  applied.  On 
glides  the  Mountain  Maid,  which  we  have  ungallant- 
ly  abandoned ;  but  she  has  plenty  to  flirt  with  her 
in  our  absence,  and  is  of  so  forgiving  a  nature,  that 
the  paltry  sum  of  a  dollar,  or  less,  will  induce  her  by 
and  by,  to  receive  us  on  our  former  (deck)  footing. 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


23 


CHAPTER    III. 

The  Mountain  House — Island  Scenery — The  Palisades 
Bathing  Place  —  Balance  Rock — Skinnet'^s  Cave 
and  its  Legend, 


1 ; 

i  ,3 


The  Owl's  Head  Mountain  House  is  delightfully  sit- 
uated on  the  wertern  shore  of  the  lake.  It  stands  in 
a  natural  Amphitheatre,  on  a  picturesque  little  plateau 
at  the  base  of  Owl's  Head,  very  near  the  margin  of 
the  waters.  A  neat  and  very  convenient  plank  path- 
way extends  from  the  front  of  the  house  to  the  lake, 
and  on  a  wharf  at  its  further  end,  passengers  land  as 
easily  as  possible.  On  a  rocky  knoll  is  a  picturesque 
summer  house ;  and  back  of  this  a  miniature  moun- 
tain, from  whose  top  dxquisite  views  are  commanded. 
On  the  south  side  of  the  house  are  flower  gardens — 
rural  walks,  and  rocky  pathway^  ;  and  on  the  north,  a 
lovely  little  inlet  with  a  shingly  beach  called  Sherman^ s 
Bay,  in  compliment  to  the  lady  Preceptress,  who  with 
her  charming  pupils,  visited  the  house  last  summer. 
Between  this  bay  and  the  house  is  a  bridle  path  which 
leads  to  the  summit  of  Owl's  Head.  Towering  grand- 
ly above  all,  is  the  Mountain  itself,  a  brief  account  of 
which  we  will  give  presently. 


i    M 


f  '  1 


n  I 


1     !!' 


24 


MEMPIIREMAGOG. 


Taking  our  post  cf  observation  in  the  little  summer 
pavilion  before  referred  to,  a  glorious  prospect  bursts 
upon  the  eye.  Immediately  in  front  rises  the  Basin 
Mountain  to  a  height  of  some  12  or  1500  feet,  and  en- 
tirely covered  with  foliage.  Stretching  grandly  away, 
north  and  south,  the  lake  is  bounded  by  lofty  moun- 
tains, verdant  slopes,  and  bold  headlands.  From  this 
point,  also  five  islands  are  visible.  Directly  in  front, 
and  distant  about  two  miles,  is  Skinner's  Island  ;  a 
very  little  to  the  north  of  it  is  Long  Island  ;  between 
Skinner's  and  the  main  land,  is  Minnow  Island  ;  a 
mile  and  a  half  distant  on  our  right  is  Round  Island, 
and  southwards.  Province  Island,  already  described. 
All  these  are  Avithin  a  morning  boat-ride  of  the  house, 
and  each  possesses  attractions  peculiar  to  itself.  Sup- 
pose Ave  make  our  first  boat  trip  to  Long  Island. 

As  its  name  implies,  its  length  is  considerably  great- 
er than  its  breadth — the  former  beino;  about  one  and  a 
half  miles,  the  latter  not  half  a  mile.  This  Island 
is  covered  thickly  Avith  trees,  and  is  chiefly  remarkable 
for  its  bold,  rocky  shores.  Near  its  northern  end,  on 
its  Avestcrn  side,  are  some  perpendicular  rocks  named 
the  Palisades,  from  their  resemblance,  on  a  small  scale, 
to  those  of  the  same  name  on  the  River  Hudson. 
These  are  avcII  Avorthy  a  visit.  Not  far  from  these  is  a 
beautiful,  safe,  and  sheltered  natural  bathing  place. 
The  shores  on  the  eastern  side  are  very  romantic,  and 
to  a  geologist,  highly  interesting.     As  for  an  artist,  he 


MEMPIIREMAGOG. 


25 


might  go  into  fits  (of  enthusiasm)  on  beholding  the 
"  rock  studies"  which  abound  here. 

But  the  "  lion"  of  Long  Island,  is  the  Balance  Rock. 


Balance  Hock. 


On  the  ridge  of  a  granite  rock,  which  slopes  towards 
the  water,  stands  another  huge  mass  of  granite,  weigh- 
ing many  tons,  and  resting  only  a  single  point  or  pivot, 
in  the  same  manner  as  does  the  celebrated  Logan 
rocking  stone  in  Cornwall,  England.  This  one,  how- 
ever, does  not  move.  How  it  got  into  its  present  po- 
sition is  purely  a  matter  of  conjecture.  Some  suppose 
it  to  have  been  brought  on  ice,  which,  thawing,  depos- 
ited it  there.  Others  imagine  the  waters  of  the  lake 
were  once  higher  than  now,  and  that  when  receding, 
winds  and  storms  washed  away  the  earth  which  might 
have   surrounded   its  base.     We  profess  to  hold  no 


I  !! 


26 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


R5 


\h 


opinion  on  the  subject,  and  leave  the  geologist  to  look 
to  it.  A  curious  tree  grows  close  to,  and  leans  over 
the  stone,  giving  it  much  the  appearance,  at  a  distance, 
or  in  the  gray  of  the  evening,  of  a  sarcophagus,  and  a 
familiar  emblem.  To  be  sure,  one  has  to  imagine  the 
drooping  branches  of  the  willow  ;  but  as  we  all  know, 
fancy  is  a  very  fertile  artist,  and  can  accomplish  won- 
ders. 

Leaving  the  Balance  Rock  behind  us,  we  now  row 
to  the  northern  end  of  Skinner's  Island,  which  is  not 
of  so  great  extent  as  Long  Island,  but  equally  pic- 
turesque. It,  too,  has  its  "  lion"  in  the  shape  of  a 
Cave  on  its  western  side,  close  to  its  northern  extrem- 
ity. This  is  a  very  favorite  resort  for  visitors,  and  is 
easily  reached,  it  being  little  more  than  a  mile  from 
the  Mountain  House,  from  wiiich  it  can  be  plainly 
seen.  Nearly  all  such  places  as  these  have  their  le- 
gends, and  Skinner's  Cave  is  no  exception  to  the  al- 
most general  rule.  But  before  we  relate  it,  let  us  say 
that  the  Cave  is  close  to  the  water  on  the  island  side, 
is  about  10  feet  wide  at  the  entrance,  from  12  to  14 
feet  high,  and  extends  into  the  rock  a  distance  of  some 
80  feet,  narrowing  from  the  outside  until  the  two  walls 
of  the  cave  meet  at  the  end. 

Here  then  is  the  legend  of  Skinner's  Cave,  which 
a  friend  of  ours  has  "  done"  into  rhyme.  It  is  neces- 
sary to  preface  it  with  a  little  plain  prose,  to  render 
the  verse  intelligible.  In  the  year  1812,  during  the 
last  American  war  with  England,  smuggling  was  car- 


MEMPHBEMAGOG. 


27 


ried  on  to  a  great  extent  on  Lake  Mempliremagog.  A 
determined  attempt  was  made  by  both  the  belligerent 
parties  to  put  the  illegal  traffic  down,  and  one  after 
another,  all  the  smugglers  were  captured  but  a  certain 
daring  dealer  in  contraband  articles,  named  Uriah 
Skinner.  This  worthy  baffled  the  ingenuity  of  the 
Custom  Officers  for  a  long  time,  but  was  at  last — stay 
— ^you  shall  hear,  dear  reader,  all  about  it  presently. 
After  a  rather  florid  description  of  the  lake,  our  rhym- 
ing friend  proceeds  as  follows,  in  his  ruse,  which  he 
calls 


The  Bold  Smuggler  of  Magog. 


* 


In  a  certain  part  of  this  exquisite  sheet 
Of  water,  the  "  States"  and  "  East  Canada"  meet, 
Here,  though  you  can't  see  it,  the  "  boundary  line" 
Of  Webster  and  Ashburton  passes ;  in  fine, 
One-third  of  the  lake's  in  Vermont,  at  the  least, 
The  other  two-thirds  are  in  Canada  East; 
The  reader  must  fail  not  to  understand  this. 
Or  the  point  of  the  story  he'll  certainly  miss. 


K  ■  1 


* 


rvas  car- 


Let  the  reader  imagine  an  Eden-like  scene ; 
Mountains  robed  to  their- summits  in  drapery  of  green, 


28 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


With  three  miles  of  cahn  and  hhie  water  between, 
And  then  ho  will  jiossibly  know  what  I  mean  : 
And  the  name  of  this  lake,  on  whose  shores  neither  bog 
Nor  flat  shores  are  seen,  is  this, 

MEMPHREMAGOG! 

A  queer  word  to  pronounce  just  at  first,  but  it  slips 

In  a  very  short  time  smoothly  over  the  lips  ; 

The  rhyme  forced  me  to  mention  the  "  bo<T,"  when  I  say 

You'll  be  right  if  you  will  but  the  emphasis  lay 

On  one  vowel  alone — I  refer  to  the  A, 

And  you'll  certainly  then^  not  be  out  of  the  way. 


On  this  beautiful  lake  many  islands  are  found — 

There  is  "  Skinners"  and  "  Long" — "  Province" — ^'Minnow" 

and  "  Kound"— 
On  the  j^rs^,  will  the  scene  of  this  legend  be  found. 


When  war's  dogs  are  slipped — there  is  plenty  of  juggling^ 
And,  among  other  kinds  of  rascality — smuggling  ; 
On  Lake  Memphremagog,  such  practice  was  ''  line,'* 
For  across  it,  you  know,  runs  the  old  Province  Line ; 
And  to  dare-devil  men  'twas  not  hard  in  the  least, 
From  Vermont  to  slip  into  Canada  East : 
Of  course,  as  most  matters  have  two  sides,  we  here  see 
A  similar  feat  mi^ilit  be  done  vict  versa. 


Now,  had  /  such  a  pen 
As  has  one  of  those  men, 


;  [ 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


29 


Messrs.  Reynolds  or  Cobb — or  Ned  Buntline,  why  then 
I'd  all  of  these  smugglers  of  Magog  describe  ; 
As  I've  not,  I'll  take  one  as  a  type  of  the  tribe ! 

Fancy  a  fellow,  brawny  and  brown, 

With  very  black  hair  that  hangs  shaggily  down, 

With  whiskers  remarkably  bushy  and  black, 

With  fists  which  might  give  a  most  terrible  thwack ; 

With  very  fierce  eyes  under  dark  heavy  brows. 

That  flashed  like  a  cat's  when  it  springs  on  a  mouse, 

Or  like  coals  in  a  cavern  that  gleam  fiery  red. 

With  a  great  roman  nose,  so  uncommonly  red, 

That  Avhenever  he  washed  it  ('twas  seldom)  I  wis. 

The  water  would  certainly  bubble  and  hiss ! 

With  a  mouth,  firm,  compressed,  and  much  pi-one  to  a  sneer, 

With  a  purple  scar  stretching  from  chin  unto  car ; 

With  a  huge  dagger  stuck  in  the  belt  round  his  waist, 

And  five  or  six  pistols  beside  it  placed ; 

With  a  heavy  cutlass  not  long  nor  pliant. 

Such  as  little  "  Jack"  used  when  he  slaughtered  tlie  "  Giant," 

With  great  heavy  boots — and  as  heavy  a  purse, 

With  a  tongue  that  scarce  wagged  but  it  uttered  a  curse  ! 

Fierce  as  a  tiger — as  cruel  as  Nero — 

Fancy  all  these,  and  you'll  picture  my  hero ; 

Whose  name,  for  fame  has  preserved  the  same. 

Was  Uriah  Skinner,  who'd  always  on  hand 

Plenty  of  articles  contraband. 


Of  all  the  Smugglers  who  plied  on  the  lake, 
Uriah  Skinher  was  hardest  to  take  ; 


30 


MEMPIIUEMAGOG. 


i: 


The  ofTicers  hunted  him  often,  and  yet 
Uriah  Skinner  they  never  could  <ret  \ 
For  if  liis  boat  they  e'er  chanced  to  have  sight  of. 
He  vanished,  as  'twere,  and  was  speedily  right  off, 
Like  the  Flying  Dutchman,  he  seemed  to  melt 
Into  mist ;  so  that  some  who  pursued  him,  felt 
Inclined  to  believe  he  had  something  to  do 
With  a  certain  dark  gentleman — you  know  who  ! 


The  pitcher  may  often  go  to  the  well, 
Yet  at  last  be  broken  ;  so  it  befell 
In  the  case  of  Uriah — for  that  bold  chap 
Was  caught  at  last  like  a  rat  in  a  trap  ! 


t 


Night  on  the  lake,  so  clear  and  calm, 

The  night  breeze  sings  in  the  pines  its  psalm  ; 

Stars  shine  bright  in  the  dark  blue  sky. 

And  the  crescent  moon  sails  in  her  glory  on  high  : 

Above  and  below,  it  is  all  serene. 

Who,  as  he  gazed  on  the  peaceful  scene 

At  that  moment,  would  fancy  that  nine  or  ten 

Very  keen-sighted,  and  well-armed  men, 

Motionless,  and  still  as  the  dead, 

Were  ambushed  under  the  great  Owl's  Head  ? 

And  their  ears  were  open  as  well  as  their  eyes, 

Listening  and  looking  alike  for  a  prize ; 

There  they  watched  to  catch  the  first  glimpse  or  note 

Of  Skinner,  expected  that  night  in  his  boat. 


h    : 


MEMPHREMAGOa. 


31 


"  Look — don't  you  soe ! 

That,  Skinner  mus-jt  be  !" 
Oh,  Skinner !  bold  smuggler  !  there's  peril  for  thee  ! 
For  down  to  the  shore  with  leap  and  bound. 
The  officers  rush — as  goes  a  blood-hound 
On  a  fugitive's  track  v  hen  the  scent  is  found  ! 
The  boat  is  manned,  and  they're  off  the  next  minute, 
They  see  Skinner's  boat,  and  Uriah  S.  in  it ; 
Now  the  chase  grows  eager  and  hot. 
And  Skinner  himself  thinks  so  too,  I  wot. 
For  his  boat  speeds  over  the  waters  blue, 
Swiftly  as  flieth  an  Indian's  canoe. 
And  he  has  an  Indian's  craftiness  too  ; 
Now  they  near  him — now  they  are  on 
His  heels  as  it  were — and  now — He  is  gone  ! 


But  where  ? 

How  they  stare 

And  rave  and  swear  ! 
And  how — here,  there,  and  everywhere, 
The  island  they  search — for  they  think,  like  the  deer 
Who  leaves  the  forest  and  takes  to  the  floods, 
The  smuggler  has  quitted  the  lake  for  the  woods ! 
But  all  they  find  h  the  empty  boat. 
Which  one  of  the  officers  pushes  afloat : 
The  fruitless  search  they  at  length  give  o'er. 
And  Uriah  Skinner  was  never  seen  more  ! 
'Tis  said,  that  one  of  the  officers  swore, 
A  strong  brimstone  odor  pervaded  the  shore  ? 
And  another  averred  that  he  saw  Skinner  go 
In  the  clutch  of  old  Nick,  to  the  regions  below. 


!'' 


82 


MEMPHREMAGOO. 


Nearly  six  years  had  passed  away, 
When  a  Fisherman  out  in  a  storm  one  day, 
Was  very  near  making  an  awful  jdunge 
To  become  a  moal  for  tlie  pickerel  or  longe ; 
But  through  the  mist,  gazing  eager-eyed, 
In  the  side  of  an  island,  a  cave  he  spied. 
And  in  less  than  a  minute,  was  safe  inside. 


Ill 


Very  soon  passed  the  storm,  and  then, 

Ere  he  prepared  to  go  fishing  again. 

He  looked  above,  beneath,  and  around. 

And  what  do  you  think  the  fishermiui  found  ? 

Neither  a  golden  nor  silver  prize, 

But  a  skull  with  sockets  where  once  were  eyes  ; 

Also  some  bones  of  arms  and  thighs. 

And  a  vertebral  column  of  giant  size  : 

How  they  got  there,  he  couldn't  devise. 

For  he'd  only  ..«.  en  used  to  common-place  graves, 

And  knew  nought  of  "  organic  remains"  in  caves : 

On  matters  like  tliose^  his  wits  were  dull. 

So  he  dropped  the  subject  as  well  as  the  skull. 


'Tis  needless  to  say 

In  this  later  day, 
'Twas  the  smuggler's  bones  in  the  cave,  tliat  lay  : 
All  I've  to  add  is — the  bones  in  a  grave 
Were  placed,  and  the  cavern  was  called  "  Skinner's  Cave." 


n : 


MEMPIIUKMAGOG. 


33 


Skinner's  Cave. 


Between  Skinner's  Island  and  the  main  land,  is 
Minnow  or  Minnie  Island,  perhaps  the  latter  name 
refers  to  its  diminutive  dimensions.  Close  to,  and  ar- 
round  it  is  the  great  fall  seining  place,  thousands  of 
fish  being  taken  from  the  lake  at  this  place,  every  year. 

Standing  on  the  rocks  in  front  of  the  Mountain 
House,  an  excellent  view  of  Round  Island  is  obtained, 
and  certainly,  it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  objects  on 
the  lake.  On  a  calm  day,  the  effects  of  light  and 
shadow  are  exquisite.  In  a  photograph  by  Messrs. 
Gage  ct  Rowell,  of  St.  Johnsbury,  (which  may  be 
bought  at  the  Mountain  House,)  these  effects  are 
most  happily  preserved.  Nothing  can  be  more  per- 
fect than  this  view,  Avhich,  whether  as  it  regards  foliage, 
rock,  water  or  island,  is  first-rate  of  its  class.    Round 

8 


It        I' 


34 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


Island  is  only  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  house,  and 
a  very  pleasant  boat  ride  will  give  an  excellent  appetite 
for  the  remarkable  quantity  of  berries  of  various  de- 
scriptions, for  which  it  is  remarkable. 


iii 


m 


m 


Round  Mund. 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Ascent  of  OivVs  Head — Maxims  for  Mountaineers — 
Picturesque  Rocks — The  Old  Field — Fern  Hollow 
—  TJie  Toll  Gate — Crinoline  Chamber — Half-VKiy 
Log- — Moses^  Rock — The  Staircases — Refreshment 
Holloiv —  Views  from  Summit — A.  Fish  Story — Novel 
Descent, 


And  now,  having  visited  all  the  islands,  suppose  we 
ascend  the  OwPs  Head  Mountain,  and  atone  bird's  eye 
glance,  observe,  as  a  whole,  scenes  which  Ave  have  been 
describing  in  detail,  as  well  as  countless  attractions 
besides.  A  fcAV  maxims  for  "•  Mountaineers,"  may  be 
in  place  here. 

Ladies — even  though  it  should  cost  you  a  parting 
pang,  when  preparing  for  the  upward  trip,  abandon 
crinoline  and  hoop — and  don't  dress  yourself  as  Yilli- 
kin's  Dinah  was  ordered  to — "  in  gorgeous  array." 
The  worLO  your  attire,  the  better  you  will  feel.  Wear 
stout  shoes  or  boots  ;  if  damp  weather,  rubbers ;  and 
should  you  have  a  Bloomer  Costume,  put  it  on  by  all 
means,  for  in  some  parts  of  the  ascent,  you  will  "  bless 
your  stars,  and  think  it  luxury" — at  least  you'll  find 
it  amazingly  convenient. 


f»^ 


86 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


m 


\( 


Provide  yourself  with  a  staff  some  five  feet  long,  a 
little  sharp  at  the  lower  end ;  something  in  fact,  like 
the  Swiss  Alpenstoclc  which  is  shod  with  iron ;  this, 
however,  is  only  necessary  where  ice  has  to  be  crossed, 
and  such  is  not  tlie  case  here. 

Do  not  be  in  a  hurry  when  you  set  out ;  take  it 
coolly  at  first ;  you  will  experience  the  great  benefit  of 
thus  husbanding  your  strength  when  you  get  half  way 
up,  where  it  will  be  most  needed. 

Carry  with  you  some  biscuits  or  sandwiches,  and  a 
little  tin  cup  for  water — there  are  several  springs  on 
the  way  up. 

These  maxims  are  for  ladies  ;  as  for  the  "  sterner 
and  stronger"  (?)  sex,  they  must  get  on  or  up  as  they 
best  can,  without  advice  from  us. 


m 


Owl's  Head  Mountaia. 


t.l        i 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


87 


ASCENT  OF  OWL'S  HEAD. 

A  direction  post  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mountain 
House,  indicates  the  path  to  the  summit.     For  a  little 
way  the  course   is  tolerably  level,  but  after  about  ten 
minutes  walking,    the  ascent  commences  in  earnest. 
On  either  side  the  path  is  bounded  by  woods,  where 
the  wild  bird  sings  and  the  squirrel  gambols  undis- 
turbed.    Before  long,  you  perceive  before  and  above 
you,  a  singular  rock  of  very  large  size,  projecting  over 
the   path  from  the  right  hand  side.     This  is  called 
Shelter  Rock ;  a  name  not  altogether  inappropriate,  as 
a  large  party  might  find  refuge  from  a  shower,  beneath 
its  overhanging  portion.     We  may  here  mention  that 
Owl's  Head  is  remarkable  for  its  picturesque  rocks, 
A  very  eminent  landscape  painter  remarked  to  us  last 
summer,  that  he  had  never,  anywhere  else,  met  with 
such  excellent  "  studies,"  in  this  respect,  for  an  artist. 
Not  far  beyond  "  Shelter,"  is  Hi^h  Rock^^ix  huge  mass 
of  stone  crowned  with  plumy  ferns,  and  half  clad  with 
the  greenest  moss.     A  little  brook  of  the  purest  water 
is  soon  reached — it  is  this  stream  which  supplies  the 
fish  pond  below.     The  rivulet  crossed,  after  a  rather 
steep   "  grade,"  you  hear  the  tinkle  of  cow-bells,  and 
suddenly  enter  a  large  open  space,  almost  circular  in 
shape  and  nearly  level.     After  the  brisk  climbing,  the 
pathway  tlirough  the  Old  Field,  as  it  is  termed,  is  a 
pleasant  change   enough.     You  may,  if  you  choose, 
loiter  and  pick  berries — mulberries,  blackberries,  rasp- 
berries &c.,  and  wild  flowers,  which  are  very  abundant. 


38 


MEMPHEEMAGOG. 


-Jl'l 


mm 

'  I  ',11 


Hero  you  have  a  fine  view  of  one  of  the  mountain 
ledges,  which  if  you  are  a  sketcher,  you  will  not  fail 
to  transfer  to  your  portfolio.  Nor  will  the  "  Amphi- 
theatre of  Avoocls,"  also  visible  here,  be  without  its  at- 
tractions. A  "  sugar  camp"  is  next  passed — in  other 
words,  a  maple  grove  ;  and  then  we  arrive  at  a  circu- 
lar sort  of  basin  named  Fern  Holloiv — the  said  basin 
being  quite  covered  with  those  plants.  Still  ascend- 
ing, we  get  to  Fern  Rock,  Avliere  a  botanist  might  long 
luxuriate.  The  way  now  becomes  pretty  steep,  but  if 
you  halt  occasionally  to  recover  breath,  you  may  use 
your  eyes  as  Avell  as  rest  your  lungs,  for  there  are  plen- 
ty of  objects  worthy  attention.  For  instance,  here  is 
Birch  Rock.  On  the  steep  hill-side  above  you  are  two 
large,  oblong  granite  rocks— their  ends  being  placed  so 
close  together  that  there  does  not  appear  room  to  place 
a  finger's  point  between.  Yet  in  that  fissure  is  suffic- 
ient earth  to  nourish  a  fine  birch  tree,  which  seems  to 
rise  from,  and  grow  out  of  the  lower  stone.  Chester 
Rock  (named  after  a  very  intelligent  boy  guide)  is  a 
huge  mass  of  limestone  partly  covered  with  moss,  and 
crowned  with  white  pine.  Onward  and  upward  we  go, 
until  we  are  brought  to  a  stand  at  the  Toll- Gate, 
where  it  is  by  no  means  an  unusual  thing  to  find  a  toll- 
keeper  also.  This  Toil-Gate  is  formed  by  two  large 
rocks,  from  whose  upper  surface  trees  spring  upwards, 
and  between  which,  there  is  just  room  for  one  very 
stout,  or  two  very  slim  persons  to  walk  abreast.  Hoops 
have  no  chance  here,  unless  the  circles  are  changed 


MEMPHREMAGOO. 


89 


into  ovals,  or  elipsis.  Wc  have  known  ladies  who 
were  compelled  to  retire  to  a  leafy  bower,  hard  by, 
called  Crinoline  Chamber^  and  divest  themselves  of 
their  "  hindrances,"  for  a  Camel  may  as  Avell  attempt 
to  go  through  the  eye  of  a  needle,  as  a  fashionably 
dressed  lady  to  get  through  the  Toll-Gate.  This  per- 
ilous "  pass"  having  been  accomplished,  the  next  ob- 
ject of  attraction  is  the  Chair  Rock,  from  whose  sum- 
mit the  first  view  of  the  lake  during  the  ascent,  is  ob- 
tained. Beyond  this  is  Half-way  Log,  where  we  had 
better  rest ;  and  while  we  do  so,  let  us  state  that  away 
to  our  right,  and  below  us,  is  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able "  bits"  of  scenery  on  the  mountain  ;  though  as  it 
lies  out  of  the  main  pathway,  but  comparatively  few 
stumble  on  it,  except  by  accident.  It  may,  though,  be 
easily  reached  from  the  Mountain  House,  in  half  an 
hour.  It  is  a  bold  escarpment  of  rock,  forming  part 
of  the  lower  of  the  two  ledges  which  runs  across  the 
mountain's  eastern  side.  Two  huge  walls  of  limestone 
meeting  in  a  Y  shape,  enclose  near  their  bases,  a  trian- 
gular platform,  some  12  feet  from  the  ground,  on  which 
grow  grass  and  wild  flowers.  Beneath  this  verdant 
shelf  is  a  solid  rock,  near  the  centre  of  the  face  of 
which,  is  a  small  orifice  about  the  size  of  a  goose-quill, 
from  which  a  stream  of  the  purest  water  perpetually 
flows.  How  far.  this  natural  conduit  extends  cannot 
be  known.  It  is  a  natural  curiosity,  which  would  be 
well  worth  a  visit,  even  were  it  not  for  the  grandeur 
of  the  rocks  which  tower  high  above  it. 


1^: 


40 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


It 


But  by  this  time  we  have  rested,  and  are  now  ready 
for  the  "  tug"  of  war.  Now  are  to  come  the  "pinches" 
as  the  guides  say.  Here  is  the  first  of  them — Break- 
neck Stairs.  Do  not  bo  alarmed  at  the  name,  no  one 
ever  dislocated  their  cervical  vertebrae  there  that  we 
are  aware  of;  nor  have  we,  for  already  we  have  sur- 
mounted them  witli  sculls  as  well  supported  as  ever. 
More  stairs  !  Yes — those  we  now  arrive  at  are  named 
after  an  "  inferior"  portion  of  the  frame.  Let  us  buck- 
le to,  and  try  Weary-toe  Steps.  Not  so  bad  though, 
as  the  name  seems  to  imply,  but  the  necessity  of  using 
our  pedal  extremities,  does  make  them  ache  a  trifle, 
thats  a  fact !  Next  come  Jennings^  Staircase ,  and 
Wuidbig  Staircase^  and  then  Refreshment  Hollow^ 
where  your  little  tin  can  will  be  found  useful  in  con- 
veying water  from  the  spring  to  your  lips.  Somewhat 
refreshed,  we  now  set  out  for  Spruce  Tree  Steps — the 
roots  of  those  trees  forming  the  stairs.  Then  comes 
Fountain  Ravine^  where  you  will  find  a  little  fountain 
right  in  the  pathway.  The  next  ascent  is  named  after 
a  curious  birch  tree  on  the  right.  Courage — we  are 
getting  near  the  summit !  Shamrock  Rock  and  the  Gi- 
ant''s  Staircase  are  "  done,"  and  clear  of  the  forests, 
we  stand  on  the  summit  of  Owl's  Head — nearly  3000 
feet  above  the  waters  of  Memphremagog. 

As  we  rest  on  one  of  the  crags,  a  pair  of  Eagles  are 
seen  sailing  in  the  air  far  below  us  ;  their  rich  brown 
plumage  and  bald  white  heads  gleaming  in  the  sun- 
shine.    They  build  on  some  of  the  inaccessible  crags 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


41 


about  hero.  Falcons  of  many  variotios  mako  their 
liomes  on  the  ledges  holov^.  Fish  Hawks,  a  species  of 
Ospray,  too,  are  common.  Last  summer,  we  saw  one 
of  these  birds  strike  a  hirge  fish  in  the  lake,  opposite 
the  Mountain  House — a  fish  too  large  for  the  winged 
angler  to  carry  off  after  it  had  killed  it.  Mr.  Jennings 
despatched  a  boat  to  the  scene  of  slaughter,  from 
which  the  Ospray  sulkily  wheeled  away,  and  a  fine 
shad  of  four  pounds  weight  smoked  on  our  breakfa&t 
table  next  morning.  It  is  not  every  landlord  who  has 
a  bird  to  provide  fish  for  his  guests. 

The  prospect  from  Owl's  Head  summit  is  magnifi- 
cent beyond  description.  On  clear  days,  Montreal  can 
be  distinctly  seen.  Looking  south  you  see  Clyde,  Bar- 
ton and  Black  Rivers,  Newport,  all  the  islands  on  the 
lake,  and  the  lake  itself  from  end  to  end.  To  the 
north,  Durham's  Point,  Dewey's  Point,  Knowlton  Bay, 
the  Outlet,  Orford  Mountain,  and  countless  other  ob- 
jects. To  the  east,  Seymour  Lake,  Stanstead  Plain, 
Rock  Island,  Salem  Pond,  Charleston  Pond,  Derby 
Centre,  Derby  line,  Willoughby  Lake,  White  Moun- 
tains, Little  Magog,  Massawippee  Lake,  Georgeville, 
(fee.  To  the  west,  the  continuation  of  the  Green 
Mountain  Range.  To  the  north-west,  the  Sugar  Loaf 
and  Ridge  Mountain,  Broome  Lake,  North  and  South 
Troy,  Mansonville,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  of  wilder- 
ness stretching  from  the  base  of  Owl's  Head.  These 
are  but  a  few  of  the  objects  discernable  ;  we  have  not 
space  to  mention  a  tithe  of  them.     But  let  us  exam- 


mi 


42 


MEM  PlIREiM  AGOG. 


mM 


iiie  the  summit  itself.  As  might  be  expected  from  its 
appearance  from  below,  it  is  all  split  up,  or  riveix  into 
gorges  and  ravines,  from  which  four  distinct  peaks  as- 
cend. In  one  of  tlicse  ravines  is  the  Freemason'' s 
Lodge^  so  named  from  tlie  fact  that  the  Golden  Rule 
Lodge  of  Stanstead,  hold  a  lodge  there  once  a  year,  on 
the  24th  of  June.  It  is  a  spot  well  calculated  for  ex- 
ercising the  mysteries  of  the  craft.  On  a  triangular 
rock  are  painted  the  compass  and  square,  and  below 
that  masonic  emblem  the  following  inscription  : 

GOLDEN  RULE  LODGE, 

No.  8,  Freemasons  of  Stanstead,  held  a  Communica- 
tion here  Sept.  10,  A.  L.  '57  and  '58. 


:;;!'/ 


R.  W.    Brother  E.  Gus^in,  D.  D.,  G.  M.,  Y.  W. 
B.  W.     Rev.  H.  J.  Machin,  W.  M. 
E.   B.   Gustin,  P.  M. 
E.   B.  Rider,         " 
A.  Bodwell,  " 

S.  Kingsbury,  T.  L   M. 
C.  B.  Baxter. 
E.  H.  Fennessy. 
N.  Bachelder. 
A.  C.  Hall. 
C.  S.  Channell. 
A.  S.  Gove. 


u 
u 
a 
a 

u 
u 
u 


n     '.r 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


43 


The  descent  of  tlie  Mouutiiin  is  comparatively  easy. 
It  is  remarkable  that  althoiigh  so  many  persons  of  both 
sexes  have  ascended  the  mountain,  no  serious  acci- 
dents have  happened ;  indeed  such  need  not  occur,  if 
but  common  care  be  taken.  A  few  months  since,  how- 
ever, a  man  named  Sabine,  had  a  narrow  escai)e.  Near, 
or  rather  on  the  sunanit  is  a  place  called  the  DeviVs 
Slide.  Down  this,  a  party  of  three  determined  to  go, 
on  their  way  home  ;  two  Avere  in  port,  and  these  were 
not  a  little  astounded  and  dismayed  by  seeing  their 
companion  suddenly  shoot  by  them  and  suddenly  dis- 
appear over  a  ledge,  sheer  80  feet  deep.  He  had  set 
out  running  to  overtake  his  friends  and  could  not  stop 
himself.  They  of  course  expected  to  lind  him  dead 
and  mangled,  and  cautiously  picking  their  way  over  the 
loose  stones,  at  length  reached  him  at  the  foot  of  an- 
other precipice,  sixty  feet  deep,  lying  face  downward,  on 
a  bed  of  broken  rocks  !  Sabine  had  struck  a  rocky  shelf 
after  his  first  descent,  and  bounding  off,  ball  like,  went 
over  the  second — 90  feet  in  all.  His  friends  finding 
him  motionless,  and  to  all  appearance  dead,  suggested 
the  propriety  of  getting  assistance  to  take  down  the 
body,  for  "  poor  fellow,  he's  gone"  said  one  of  them. 
No  sooner  were  the  word's  uttered,  however,  than  Sa- 
bine first  lifted  one  leg,  then  his  head,  and  said  coolly, 
*'  Come  along  boys,  this  is  the  quickest  way  down !" 
The  poor  fellow  was  a  good  deal  hurt,  but  no  bones 
were  broken,  and  Avith  assistance  he  descended.  A 
fortnight's  care  set  him  to  rights  again.     We  said,  the 


a 


MEMPIIUEMAGOG. 


place  he  shot  from  was  called  DeviVs  Slide,  but  as 
there  is  no  record  of  that  sable  gentleman's  having 
performed  such  an  extraordinary  feat  of  "  ground  and 
lofty  tumbling,"  as  Mr.  Sabine  did — the  latter  is  clearly 
entitled  to  have  his  name  substituted  for  Satan's,  and 
accordingly  Sabine's  leap  has  quite  superseded  the  dia- 
bolic appellation. 

The  mineral  riches  of  Owl's  Head  have  been  but  im- 
perfectly developed.  Some  years  ago,  Indians  used  to 
dig  there  for  lead,  and  in  later  times,  some  white  people 
also  commenced  workings  ;  but,  as  in  the  case  of  the 
Novaculite,  the  Government  stepped  in  and  stopped 
proceedings.  The  Mountain  was  also  the  scene  of  a 
hoax,  by  some  scamp  who  pretended  to  have  had  spir- 
itual revelations  concerning  mineral  riches  there,  and 
who  duped  not  a  few  credulous  noodles. 


M EM PU REM AGOG. 


45 


CHAPTER    V. 

Perkins'  Landing-— Trout  Rock— Cedar  Point— Mount 
Elephantis— Ridge  Mountain— Concert  Pond— Good 
News  for  T r out-taker s—Knoivlton's  Landimr'^Gib- 
raltar  Point— George ville—  The  Sea  Serpent — 
Mount    Orford— Magog    Outlet-Indian   Anecdote, 


of  a 

spir. 

and 


Once  more  we  are  aboard  the  Mountain  Maid,  with 
our  faces  turned  northward ;  but,  before  we  leave  the 
wharf,  let  us  pay  a  well  deserved  compliment  to  Mr. 
Jennings,  whose  Mountain  House  is  really  a  Model 
Hotel.  Every  thing  is  done  to  promote  the  comfort  of 
the  guests,  and  the  charges  are  most  moderate.  A 
gentleman  who  had  sojourned  there  two  summers, 
declared  that  mosquitoes  were  things  unknown  in  that 
locality ;  he  had  never  seen  but  one,  and  that  he  sus- 
pected came  pasbonger  on  the  boat  from  Newport.  His 
statement  we  have  had  ample  corroboration  of.  The 
only  "  Yarmint"  we  saw  there,  was  a  dead  Beor,  which 
had  been  killed  in  the  woods,  back  of  the  Mountain, 
and  very  nice  eating  Master  Bruin  proved  to  be.  Only 
fancy,  no  mosquitoes,  no  snakes,  no  hot  nights  1  AVho 
would  not  summer  it  in  such  an  Eden  ?" 

Proceeding  north,  we  keep  the  western  shore,  and 


46 


mf<:mphfiF':ma(j;og 


tf '{ 


glide  by  sonic  nmirnificciit  inountaiii  sides,  lorwardj* 
Perkins'  L(( tiding .,  tMijoyiii<^  a  line  echo,  as  we  lire  ofl' 
our  ii;iiiis  and  i)istols.  We  pass  Trout  llorh\  which 
rises  IVoni  the  deepest  part  of  tlie  hike,  aslo  Cedar 
l\)lnt.  After  leaving*  Perkins',  which  lies  in  a  pretty 
bay,  turn  and  view  Owl's  Head  from  thence  ;  seen 
from  the  south, its  head  appeared  rounded  and  jagged; 
from  tiiis  point  it  is  sharp,  i)eaked,  and  rises  cone  like, 
it  is  incomparably  the  (inest  and  most  imposing  view 
of  this  Monarch  of  the  lake.  Uefore  you,  and  to  the 
left,  is  the  next  most  remarkable  Mountain  in  this 
region — Mntitit  Klcphanth^  or  as  it  is  sometimes  called 
i^ug'fir  Loaf.     Tlie  former  is  doubtless,  most  correct. 


Mt,  Klephantis. 


Every  one  will  at  once  discover  the  resemblance  to 


ME^TPImEMAf;OC!. 


47 


to 


an  Elephant's  head  and  buck,  which  its  nppcr  part 
presents.  J^etween  this  and  the  next,  Ridi^e  Mounlain^ 
is  a  singnhir  sheet  of  water,  Concert  Pond,  wliich  lies 
far  above  the  level  of  the  lake.  It  abounds  with  delic- 
ious Mountain  Trout,  (pink-fleshed.)  IIow  they  got 
there  is  the  question,  for  there  is,  we  are  told,  no  per- 
ceptible inlet  to,  or  outlet  from  the  pond,  which  is 
easily  reached  by  an  hour's  v/alk  from  Perkins',  or 
Knowlton's  Landing,  which  is  the  next  reached.  This 
is  situated  at  the  entrance  of  KnoivHon's  Bcijj,  an  arm 
of  the  lake,  which  stretches  inland  for  a  considerable 
distance.  Just  after  leaving  Knowlton's,  the  ]5oat  pass- 
es Gibraltar  Point,  a  bold  headland,  crowned  with 
trees,  and  picturesque  in  every  respect.  Here  is  the 
place  to  see  artist  passenger  out  with  pencil  and  sketch- 
book. Nearl}'  opposite  Knowlton's,  on  the  easttTu 
shore,  is  Geoegeville,  which  we  are  now  approaching. 

It  is  a  pretty,  rural  village,  and  a  favorite  stopping 
place  for  artists  and  anglers.  It  contains,  being  a 
Port  of  Entry,  a  Custom  House,  has  a  school,  one  or 
two  stores,  some  handsome  dwellings,  chief  among 
which  is  the  Villa  of  Captain  Fogg,  and  two  hotels, 
one,  the  Memphremagog  House,  at  which  is  the  Post 
Office,  kept  by  Mr.  E.  S.  Channell,  and  the  other,  the 
Union  House,  kept  by  Mr  L.  Bigelow — both  are  ex- 
tremely  comfortable  establishments. 

On  the  beach,  near  Georgeville,  very  beautiful  and 
perfect  crystals  of  quartz  are  found  ;  geologists  would 
find  here  a  rich'field  for  their  investigations.     The  fish- 


48 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


m 


ing  opposite  the  Tillage,  for  Ion ge,  is  not  to  be  surpassed, 
and  the  woods  near,  abound  with  game.  The  lovers  of 
the  marvelous  will  be  perhaps  glad  to  know  that  the 
Jea  Serpent  occasionally  shows  itself  somewhere  in  this 
locality— that  mysterious  fish-reptile,  being  by  some, 
supposed  to  visit  the  lake  through  a  hole  in  its  deepest 
part,  and  to  return  by  the  same  subteranean,  or  sub- 
aqueous channel,  when  it  desires,  for  the  benefit  of  its 
health,  to  exchange  fresh  w^ater  for  salt.  We  were 
solemnly  assured  by  one  gentleman,  that  he  had  actu- 
ally seen  the  ''critter" — possibl}  he  believed  he  did — 
but  if  Faith  can  remove  Mountains,  manufacturing  a 
Sea  Serpent  must  be  about  as  easy  as  making  a  Mer- 
maid, according  to  the  ingenious  Mr.  Barnum's  recipe. 
The  stage  road  ride  from  Georgeville  to  the  outlet 
is  very  delightful,  and  no  tourist  should  fail  to  hire  one 
of  Mr.  Channcll's  teams,  and  enjoy  it. 


th 
la 
fo 


Mt.  Orford. 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


49 


Leaving  Georgeville,  we  now  cross  the  lake  in  a  "slan- 
tindicular"  direction — Mount  Orford,  the  highest  land 
in  Canada  East,  rising  grandly  before  us  in  the  distance. 
This  Mountain  is  3,300  feet  high,  and  is  surrounded  at 
its  base  with  a  wide  belt  of  forest.  It  is  a  favorite 
camping  ground  for  sportsmen,  all  kinds  of  game  being 
found  there  in  plenty.  The  lake,  narrowed  at  George- 
ville, now  again  widens,  and  Lord's  Island  lies  before 
us.  The  next  landing  is  Paige's^  from  whence  we  again 
cross  the  lake  diagonally,  and  soon  arrive  at  the  ter- 
mination of  our  Lake  Trip — Magog  Village^  or  the  Out- 
let^ as  it  is  more  generally  termed. 

Here  a  stage  will  be  found  in  waiting  to  convey  pas- 
sengers to  Sherbrooke,  some  fifteen  miles  distant,  where 
is  a  depot  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Eailroad,  in  the  cars 
of  which,  Montreal  or  Quebec  may  be  reached  the 
same  evening.  On  the  road  to  Sherbrooke,  Little  Mar 
gog  Lake  is  passed,  but  it  possesses  no  features  of  pecur 
liar  interest. 

The  village  of  Magog  is  but  small.  It  contains  a 
Catholic  Church,  a  good  hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  Buck,  some 
stores,  a  Post  Office,  and  some  extensive  saw  mills, 
the  water  privilege  caused  by  the  fall  at  the  outlet  of  the 
lake,  being  very  fine.  Here  tlie  Mountain  Maid  remains- 
for  an  hour  or  two,  before  her  return  trip,  affording 
passengers  an  opportunity  to  stroll,  or  dine. 

Magog  was  once  a  strong-hold,  of  the  Indians,  and  a 
rather  interesting  story  was  related  to  us  by  one  of  the 
"  oldest  inhabitants,'^  who  had  received  it  traditionally, 

4 


50 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


and  doubted  not  of  its  truth.  A  young  and  handsome 
warrior  of  the  Tribe  had  committed  some  offence  for 
which  death  was  the  inevitr«ble  punishment.  He  ad- 
mitted the  justice  of  his  sentence ;  but  only  asked  one 
favor.  It  was  that  he  might  be  permitted  to  visit  an 
aged  father  many  miles  distant,  on  his  promising  to 
return  on  the  day  fixed  for  his  death.  His  request  was 
granted,  and  the  young  "  bravo"  departed.  Some 
months  elapsed,  and  the  time  of  the  appointed  tortur- 
ing process  drew  near;  but;  all  felt  sure  that  the  unfor- 
tunate youth's  word  would  be  kept,  and  it  was;  pre- 
cisely on  the  day,  at  the  hour  appointed,  he  marched 
into  the  circle  of  wigwams,  and  merely  saying  "  I  am 
ready,"  gave  himself  up  a  willing  offerhig  to  the  offended 
justice  of  his  Tribe.  Occasionally  stone  arrow  heads 
and  other  Indian  relics  are  dug  up  at  Magog,  as  they 
are  also  at  Owl's  Head. 


<m»^ 


/^  A  list  (necessarily  incomplete,)  of  some  of  the  prin- 
cipal animals,  birds,  fishes,  and  reptiles,  to  be  found  in 
Lake  Memphremagog,  and  in  its  vicinity,  may  not  be 
uninteresting : — 


ANIMALS. 

Deer,  Bears,  Foxes,  Squirrels,  (various,)  Hares,  Rab- 
bits, Woodchuck,  Beaver. 


V 

s 
s 
a 


MEMPHREMA«OG. 


BIEDS. 


51 


Eagles,  (various,)  Falcons,  (various,)  Hawks,  Gulls, 
Pigeons,  Loon,  Duck,  Partridge,  Snipe,  Woodcock, 
Brant,  Geese.  •      , 


FISHES. 

Longe,  Pickerel,  Shadwaiters,  Eels,  Rock  Bass,  Cat- 
Fish,  Suckers,  Trout. 


REPTILES. 

Common  Green  Snake,  Black  Snake,  Chicken  Snake, 
Garter  Snake,  Toads,  Frogs, — (there  are  no  known 
venomous  reptiles — that  we  are  aware  of.) 


GEOLOGICAL  CHARACTERISTICS. 


■■il 


>'■'  i 


Foi  .iie  Geological  Characteristics  of  the  lake  shores, 
we  refer  the  reader  to  the  respective  reports  of  Profes- 
sor Hitchcock,  and  Sir  William  Logan.  Details  of 
such  would  be  quite  out  of  place  in  a  brochure,  such 
as  this. 


52 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 

CLIMATE. 


No  climate  can  be  more  salubrious  than  that  on  and 
about  Lake  Memphremagog.  Tempests  are  but  seldom 
experienced,  and  the  air  is  pure  and  bracing.  The  vi- 
cinity of  the  lake  always  .  nsures  a  sufficiency  of  mois- 
ture in  the  atmosphere.  The  Summers  are  cool,  and 
the  Winters  far  milder  than  in  Boston  or  New  York. 


I  m9m  I 


Principal  Hotels  in  thj^  chief  Cities,  Towns  and 
Villages  on  the  route  to  or  from  Memphremagog. 


pik* 


m, 

hit: 

life:' 


m 


New  York. — St.  Nicholas,  Metropolitan,  Astor,  Ev- 
erett House,  Claredon,  &c^,  &c. 

Boston. — ^Revere,  Tremont,  American  House,  Park- 
er's, Marlboro'. 

Springfield. — Massasoit  House,  American  House. 

Lowell. — Merrimack  House,  American  House. 

Concord. — Phoenix,  Eagle,  Gass's  American  House. 

White  River  Junction. — Junction  House. 

Newbury. — Newbury  House,  Spring  Hotel. 


^ 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


63 


St.  Johnsbury. — St.  Johnsbury  House. 

Barton. — Barton  Hotel. 

' '    Newport. — Memphremagog  House. 

Quebec. — Russell's  Hotel. 

Montreal. — St.  Lawrence  Hall,  Ottawa  House,  Mon- 
treal House. 

Sherbrooke. — Sherbrooke  House,  Cheney's  Hotel. 

Portland. — American  House,  Walnut  Street  House. 


4    ^mtm    > 


ROUTE  TABLE. 

From  Boston,  via.  Boston  and  Maine,  Concord, 
Manchester,  and  Lawrence,  Boston,  Concord  and  Mon- 
treal Railroad,  and  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  Rivers 
Railroad  to  Barton.  Station,  Haymarket  Square, 
Boston. 

From  Boston,  via.  Boston  and  Lowell,  Nashua 
and  Lowell,  Concord,  Northern  and  Connecticut  and 
Passumpsic  Rivers  Railroad,  up  the  valleys  of  the 
Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  Rivers,  to  Barton.  Sta- 
tion, Causeway  Street,  Boston. 


64 


MEMPHBEMAGOG. 


Trains  leave  Boston  by  both  routes  at  7.30  A.  M., 
12  M.,  and  5  o'clock,  P.  M. 

Passengers  taking  7.30  A.  M.  train,  reach  the  lake  the 
same  evening ;  those  ,taking  12  M.  train,  lodge  at  White 
River  Junction;  those  taking  5  P.  M.,  train, lodge  at 
Ooncord,  and  reach  the  lake  the  next  evening. 

Distance  from  Boston  to  Lake  Memphremagog. 
Eailroad,       -        -        -        -         232 
Stage, 14 


246Mik5. 


Fare  $7.50. 


From  New  York,  by  railroad,  via.  New  Haven, 
Hartford,  Springfield  and  Biellows  Falls.  Station, 
27th  Street. 

Trains  leave  at  8  o'clock,  A.  M.,  and  4  o'clock,  P. 
M.  Passengers  from  New  York,  at  8  o'clock,  A.  M., 
can  stop  over  night  at  Hartford,  Springfield,  or  North- 
ampton, or  any  other  point  above  Hartford,  and  reach 
the  lake  the  nX3xt  evening,  at  a  seasonable  hour. 

Passengers  leaving  New  York  at  4  o'clock,  P.  M., 
can  stop  at  the  same  places  over  night,  and  reach  the 
lake  as  soon  as  by  leaving  at  8  o'clock,  A.  M. 

Dine  at  White  River  Junction  ;  tea  at  Barton. 


'iliv 


MEMPHEEMAGOG. 


65 


Distance  from  New  York  to  Lake  Memphremagog. 
Eailroad,      -        -        -        -       352 
Stage, 14 


366  Miles. 


Fare,  $10.25. 


WHITE  AND  FRANCONIA  MOUNTAINS 


TO 


LAKE     MEMPHREMAGOG 


Leave  the  White  Mountains  at  6  o'clock,  A«  M. 
*'       "    Franconia  "  "  7  o'clock,  A.  M. 

By  Stage,  to  Littleton,  .thence  by  White  Mountains 
Railroad  to  Wells  River,  dine  at  the  Coossuck  House,  or 
Newbury,  at  which  latter  village  are  the  "  Sulphur 
Springs,"  and  two  good  Hotels  ;  arriving  at  10.30  A. 
M.,  tourists  can  dine,  take  the  up  train  of  the  Con- 
necticut and  Passumpsic  Rivers  Railroad,  at  3. 45  P.  M., 
sup  at  Barton,  thence  by  stage  to  the  lake  the  same 
evening.  Tickets  and  reliable  information  can  be 
had  of  the  Agent  of  the  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic 
Rivers  Railroad  at  the  White  Mountains,  and  the  Fran- 
conia  Mountains. 


11' 


56 


MEMPHREMAGOG. 


Fare  from  White  Mountains,  $6.63. 

Distance  115  miles. 

Fare,  from  Franconia  Mountains,  $4.80. 

Distance  102  miles. 

Tickets  can  also  be  bought  at  a  reduced  rate^  by  Excur- 
tionists,  for  the  round  trip,  from,  either  of  the  Moun- 
tains, to  Quebec^  or  Montreal^  and  back,  to  Wells 
Eivcr,  or  AVliite  River  Junction. 


FROM  LAKE  MEMPHREMAGOG 


TO 


QUEBEC     AND     MONTKEAL 


n 


iiif 


Leave  Newport  at  7  o'clock,  A.  M.,  by  Steamer 
Mountain  Maid,  Capt.  Fogg,  to  the  Outlet,  (30  miles,) 
thence  by  stage,  to  Sherbrooke,  (15  miles,)  dine,  take 
cars  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  and  reach  either  of 
above  cities  same  evening. 

Returning,  leave  Quebec  at  5.45  A.  M.,  Montreal  at 
7  o'clock,  A.  M.,  by  Grand  Trunk  Railway  ;  dine  at 
Sherbrooke,  thence  by  stage  to  the  Outlet,  take  Steam- 
er, touching  at  the  "  Mountain  House, ^^  lodge  at  New- 
port, and  thence  next  morning,  by  stage  to  Barton ; 
Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  Rivers  Railroad  to  the 
Mountains,  Boston  or  New  York,  same  evening,  five 
hours  quicker  than  by  any  other  route. 


